Parts laid out on the jig table so i can start working out a few dimensions. The jig table has another 5 ft section to be fitted to it at the end closest to the camera in the wide shots of the front of the engine.
Before I explain how I've done the bodywork I must also explain that due to lack of space and money open moulding is the only option open to me to complete the work. The bodywork on the trike is GRP over foam formers. After much trial and error I finally decided to do it as follows. I used ply and foam to make the body panels up. When the former is sanded to it's final shape I let it rest for a few days and then cover it with aluminium tape I then lay up the resin and matting over the former. usually two layers and allow it to cure for 12 hours. I then carefully 'pop' the GRP off the former. Any more than two layers it can crack, any less and it flops and won't hold shape while you back it out. For large flat panels I laid 3mm core mat out on a flat surface and added resin. Once cured it's easy to mark out your panels and cut it with a slitting disk or hack saw blade in a jig saw. I used bits of ducting to make formers for the side duc...
Started in getting all the muck and old paint of the top of the engine. The paint on the bottom cases is OK and just needs a touch up but the top end needed a complete strip down and new paint job. Only part of the way there but I've made a bit of progress today and it's cleaning up pretty well. Be decent once I get it all cleaned and painted up, you can already see a big difference. Fingers are very sore but it's worth the effort to do it right the first time, I want to use this trike not spend a lot of time fixing bodges.
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